They say one of the best ways to learn about a country and its culture is through food. If that’s true, Villa Mama’s, London’s first Bahraini restaurant, offers the perfect introduction to the rich culinary heritage of this Persian Gulf nation.
Here, in the cosy neighbourhood spot on Elystan Street, right in the heart of Chelsea, you discover flavours in the little-known cuisine alongside more traditional spices.
Recipe for success
Villa Mamas was founded by Roaya Saleh, a pioneer of home-style Eastern Arabian cuisine, also known as Khaleeji cooking, in Bahrain. Formerly an investment banker and the first female director of an Islamic bank, Roaya had no experience in the culinary industry before launching her first restaurant in 2012.
In the early days, her husband and children helped serve the food while Roaya herself cooked for the growing number of guests. Her passion and dedication have not only led to her own success but have also elevated traditional Gulf flavours to a global audience.
Roaya has appeared as a guest expert and judge on MasterChef and Top Chef Arabia and has published culinary books. Over the past decade, she has expanded her culinary empire to Abu Dhabi, Riyadh, and London.
Arabic fairy tales
Villa Mamas London is one of the very few restaurants where you know within seconds of walking in, you know it’s going to be an authentic experience. As we approached we noticed it was almost completely full, which is always a good sign.
The rustic interior has characterful touches everywhere and retains an intimate atmosphere, thanks to thoughtful and inviting Middle Eastern touches – traditional Bahraini café-style benches for alfresco diners, folding doors dressed with handmade Turkish curtains, and a handwoven wall rug.
Inside, marble-topped tables, vintage chapel chairs, and colourful scatter cushions create a cozy yet chic setting. A Parisian-style shop counter, decorated with Roaya’s family photos and homemade jams and delicacies brought straight from Bahrain, adds a personal touch. The combination of all of this evokes the feeling that you’re about to enjoy some proper home-cooked food.
Gulf, Persia, and beyond
Despite the cosiness of the room, the food at Villa Mamas has a certain grandeur, a composed, thoughtful formality that makes dining here feel like a special occasion. This is partly due to the inherent richness of Middle Eastern cuisine, with its array of meats, seafood, and a dazzling rainbow of herbs and fruits.
The menu offers fresh takes on traditional hummus and tikka dishes alongside more inventive fare that transports diners to the region. No need to Google every dish or interrogate the waitress – simply scan the QR code at your table, and you’ll be redirected to the Villa Mamas website, where you’ll find beautiful photos of every dish and drink.
Middle Eastern masterclass
To start, we opted for Babba’s Tikka and Hummus, a family recipe passed down from Roaya Saleh’s late father. This is the perfect hummus variation for meat lovers, with lamb tikka served alongside smooth and creamy hummus and freshly baked tandoor bread.
We also tried the Grilled Cypriot Halloumi with Turkish chili and olive oil, and Prawn Fritters, a light and crispy choice ahead of the main courses – and the best halloumi we’ve ever had. Throughout the meal the chef shows off an array of different textures, tastes and heat – the way in which Villa Mama’s uses chillies is special, varying from course to course while never being overpowering.
One of the signature dishes is the Chicken Tahcheen, a classic Persian dish made with saffron rice and tender chicken. It consists of five different elements, making it a complex dish to prepare. Roaya Saleh uses her own spice mix, resulting in hints of chili balanced by rose petals and the pop of barberries. Another standout is Chicken Machbous, considered the national dish of Bahrain, and the Chicken Dum Biryani, a flavourful main made with layers of basmati rice, tender spiced chicken, and egg.
Despite similar dominant ingredients – chicken and rice – each dish is distinctly different in presentation and taste, thanks to the various combinations of spices carefully selected by the chef. For example, when the Chicken Dum Biryani is served, the waiter cuts open the pastry covering the bowl, making for a particularly satisfying moment to observe.
A sweet conclusion
The desserts perfectly encompass the restaurant’s concept of introducing guests to Roaya’s roots. We couldn’t resist trying the intriguing Mama’s Elba, which tasted like a saffron crème brûlée with cardamom and pistachio. The saffron ice cream with cotton candy was equally original and delightful.
Each dish and drink is beautifully presented. Speaking of drinks, the Bahraini-inspired cocktails, offered with or without alcohol, are a true highlight. The blueberry and strawberry virgin mojitos – a mix of berries, mint, chia seeds, white soda, and lime – were especially delectable, as were the Bahraini wines.
Finish with a shot of Turkish coffee with cardamom for the ultimate hit. You’ll leave feeling like you’ve just been on holiday.
Villa Mamas London is located at 25 Elystan St, London SW3 3NT. More information can be found here.
Image credits: © Villa Mamas, Travel with Style
