There’s hardly a purer distillation of the French bistro than Chez Fred. Established 74 years ago in 1945 along the Promenade Pereire in the capital’s glamorous 17th arrondissement, this bistro has long seduced Parisian taste buds.
Bistro ! Bistro !
Along with the sparkling Eiffel Tower and monumental Louvre, the Parisian bistro is one of the French capital’s most timeless icons. It has been suggested that the French word “bistrot” dates back to 1812 when the Russian army defeated Napoleon Bonaparte and came to Paris. Russian-speaking soldiers drinking in Parisian bars used to say “bistro!” meaning “fast” while they were waiting impatiently to be served.
But it wasn’t until the 19th century that the bistro, or bistrot, fully flourished into a vital hub of neighbourhood life and a bedrock of traditional French cuisine. Nowadays, according to the BBC, bistros make up 18,000 dining addresses in Paris (10% of all restaurants in France).
Commissioner Maigret recommends
In the 1950s, Georges Simenon, Belgian writer and creator of the fictional detective Jules Maigret, described Chez Fred as the favourite restaurant of Commissioner Maigret. The owner, Laurent Hullo, has preserved the Bistro’s classic aesthetic including its vintage décor: mirrors and Toulouse-Lautrec-styled posters on the walls, a chalkboard menu, and more. There is an all-wood facade, wine-coloured banquettes, a flamboyant awning, outdoor lanterns, and two counter-terraces, all highly sought-after in the Ternes district of Paris.
On a sunny day, sit outside and you’ll be convinced that you have left Paris behind for a cobbled village corner in Provence. Sip on rosé wine and tuck into escargots, poireaux vinaigrette (marinated leeks), foie gras, and other eccentricities of local cuisine everyone has to try at least once as the sun trickles through the red roof of the restaurant terrace. Watch as tourists and locals come and go – the former stopping to take photos of the postcard-perfect setting.
Timeless French bistro
The food here is a feast for the senses, with flavours that are simple, pure, and utterly delicious, capturing the soul of French cuisine. From the seasonal plump white asparagus and the côte de boeuf served with perfect French fries and mouthwatering beef cheeks, or “joue de boeuf” in French, to their signature hazelnut and chocolate profiteroles.
There’s tartare, too, of course, plus classic French bistro starters like smoked herring and potatoes bathed in a gentle vinaigrette. Overall, Chez Fred reminds us me how gorgeous simple classics can be if done well, but come hungry because the portions are generous.
The staff here offer a mix of what most people love or hate about typical French white-aproned waiters: full of personality and not interested in answering many questions or dealing with indecision over what to order, especially if you are trying to do it in English. For us, it’s fun and part of the ultimate experience. All you need to do is simply follow the chef’s recommendations and enjoy the authentic atmosphere. When in Paris…
Chez Fred depuis 1945 is located at 190 bis Bd Pereire, 75017 Paris. More information can be found here.
Image credits: © Chez Fred
